How to wear the double-breasted suit

For almost two years, PG has been advocating for a full force return of the double-breasted suit in your closet, and to convince you to try the very elegant and flattering DB suit.
In the last edition of The Rake, Bruce G. Boyer, who we consider the safest author in terms of taste and interpretation of masculine vestiaries, decidedly grabs the bull by the horns to put an end to a number of misconceptions and rules restricting these splendid suits to certain body shapes.
Without getting into all the details of the excellent article titled Double Indemnity, Mr. Boyer explains that no gentleman should fear the double-breasted suit because of his body shape, and that “if you like it, wear it”!

 

The only restriction recommended by this rather rejoicing (even blissful) plea in favour of the double breasted suit pertains to the quality of the cut. Indeed, if one item of the masculine vestiary should never suffer approximate cutting, it is the double breasted suit. When not properly fitted, it can quickly lead to visual disaster. Meanwhile, as the interest of ready-to-wear labels for this type of suit seems to be gaining momentum, it is undoubtedly becoming possible (with a good tailor, but except in high-end houses, especially not the shop tailor), to adjust the line and fitting of your suit. According to Boyer, only men with exceptionally wide hips ought to avoid the double-breasted suit.
So, for once, go ahead and bypass the so-called rules barring a little bit of extra-weight to venture with this type of cut, and let your eyes (for the line) and feel (for comfort and stance) do the judging when you don your first double-breasted suit.

 

This strong return of the DB tailored suit calls for a few pointers that will help you decipher the various ways of wearing it. Here again, contrary to widespread belief, very many models of double breasted suits exist, although all were not created equal. What differentiates them is most often the number of buttons and, most importantly, the number of so-called functioning buttons.
Personally, I have a strong preference for the classic 6 on 2 button stance, with 2 functioning buttons out of 6.